Quick, a taxi boat to Ilot Maitre!

It was a beautiful 4-day weekend in Nouméa and afar in New Caledonia this early November. With a number of events on in and around Nouméa, one was spoiled for choice.

There was a “Fete de Boeuf” in Paita which attracted over 20,000 visitors for a programme such as this:

9:00 – Official opening

9:30 – Herd of bathing animals  (pool)

10:00 – Butchering of a calf  (marking, castration)

10:30 – Country show

11:00 – Calf testicle tasting

11:15  – Equestrian games

11:30 – Couples racing

12:00 – ‘Beef on the spit’ and Paita bean tasting

12:30 – Calf-testicle-eating contest

13:30 – Rodeo

Other activities included visits to the villa museum, fairground attractions, pony rides, helicopter rides, vintage cars, food, local products, a crafts market and meat sold on site.

On the other hand, there was a lovely weekend event that renacted the arrival of 18,000 Americans in 1942, complete with baseball, fireworks, GIs and 40s music in La Foa. Apparently some 4,000 participated in the event.

But our choice, rather spontaneous as it was, was to dash out and take a taxi boat to Ilot Maitre, a wonderful little  island just 10-15 minutes away by boat. It is a coral reef reserve and as advised by local friends, it is best to go when the tide is high and there is little to no wind –  if you want to enjoy a wonderful day snorkeling in these pristine waters. Which is what we wanted – so with little to no wind and high tide, off we went!

You can get to Ilot Maitre either for the day with a package deal that includes a copious buffet lunch, access to the resort pool and deck chairs (and there is a special during the week for only 5900 CPF per adult through the end of November – which unfortunately was booked up when I called), leaving from Port Moselle. Or you can zip over on a taxi boat with your picnic lunch from Anse Vata. This turned out to be our best option.

When we arrived, and walked off the boat, our son cried, “It’s so beautiful!! Look at the water! It’s so clear! Can we live here?”

True, the water was particularly transparent that day and we could see fish swimming just under our feet as we walked down the plank to the island.

I was particularly taken by the stretch of resorts on the island and the expanse of blue before and behind them.

Mouths hanging open, as only newly arrived Parisians mouths can, we marveled at the white sand, the underwater life, the beautiful weather and heart-stopping blues. As soon as we found our friends, we donned our snorkeling gear and into the water we went. The tide was high, which allowed us to get out to the coral reefs quickly and easily. Our son snorkeled for the first time in his life (we couldn’t believe how easy it was for him to use the tuba!) and we delighted in the warm November water.

Best of all, however, was the turtle a friend pointed out to me while we were swimming. She (the turtle) was huge and graceful and peaceful. She was nibbling on the sea grass and swimming, unperturbed, through the water. We stayed with her some 10 minutes before leaving her in peace. Only to then see Picasso triggerfish, black and white striped fish, beautiful turquoise fish, and tiny yellow fish. I lost all sense of time, watching life that way.

Back on land, our little guy was fascinated with our tree neighbour, a tricot rayé (a local, lethal sea snake), who happily napped inside the tree the whole time we were there. He and his father were very pleased with themselves when they returned from a walk with a tricot rayé snakeskin in their hands …

After lunch and 2 more snorkeling sessions, it was time to go home. We packed up our things, promised ourselves we would be back soon, and ran to the boat. On the way back to Nouméa, the boat slowed to show us a dugong swimming in the waters, another first for us.

Returned home, I was exhausted, which is relatively rare for me. Perhaps it was the sun, the sea, the excitement, the swimming. The next day my arms, wrists and hands broke out into a rash. The itching was pretty intense. A little research on the web seems to indicate that I had come into contact with sea lice while snorkeling. I had felt a number of stings while swimming, but as they were not that intense, and my husband had felt it too, I didn’t think much of it. A few days later I had a rash under my bathing suit as well. I’d never heard of sea lice, and by this I mean the larvae of sea anemones or jelly fish, not the sea lice that fish (and particularly salmon) can have. As you can’t see them, there isn’t much you can do beyond get out of the water if you feel a sting (which is thankfully what our son did). After the fact, treatment includes using cortisone creams (I used aloe vera), keeping them clean and not scratching them. They can last anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks. It’s pretty uncomfortable in the beginning, but I would not take back that day for anything.

The views, the experience of swimming with a sea turtle, the peace that overcame us all as we snorkeled together for the first time as a family (okay, so my son’s flippers kept hitting me in the head, but we soon remedied that), all of those things far outweigh a few “itchy bits” (as our son calls them).

Ilot Maitre, we will be back!


16 thoughts on “Quick, a taxi boat to Ilot Maitre!

  1. Nice bit of dream in our rainy reality! And thank you for elucidating the mystery of my summer rashes. I always suspected those tiny burn type marks I got after bathing in the sea felt like jelly fish burns… No I know !

    • Yes! This trip made me think we have to get out our (cheap) underwater camera and try it out. If it is not functioning as well as it should, I can see a wish to Father Christmas coming up! It would have been great to photograph the turtle and fish for you. As for the dugong, only our son saw it. My view was blocked by my neighbour. 🙂

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  3. Having moved to Noumea in early Nov I’m finding all the info on your site v entertaining and useful! Haven’t been to Ilot Maitre yet, will have to go. I hadn’t heard of sea lice either, I have had bumps/stings before that really itch the next day after swimming but they have been in lines so I assumed they were from swimming into bits of jelly tentacle floating in the water.. Thanks for all the info, Abi

    • Lovely to hear your feedback, Abi! I’m writing another post on Ilot Maitre soon (we were just there again last weekend), and I have more news on the sea lice / invisible tiny baby jellyfish thingies – and another new tip. Keep your eyes pealed – and welcome to Nouméa!

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  5. Hi, it is great reading all your posts. We are off to Noumea in a few weeks for our Christmas break. In one of your posts about Ilot Maitre you mentioned booking ahead for the day to include the buffet lunch etc. Could you please tell me where that is best to do? Thank you 🙂

      • Hi Julie, thank you so much for your reply! That is great information. Your posts have been extremely helpful in us planning our 10 day holiday to Noumea.
        I do have one more question…..we are staying in an apartment. Which supermarket would you recommend? I am also gluten free.

        Thanks again

        Warm wishes

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